TOKYO,

It could be Tokyo's open-every-night sushi bar that first draws you to this East Side institution, but there is plenty of other fine Japanese fare to be had here. The appetizers are a great place to start, with the consistent favorite being the fired gyo-zas ($4.75), crispy dumplings stuffed with spiced pork and topped with a salty-sweet soy and herb sauce. For dinner, the udon suki ($15.50, which also includes miso soup and ginger ice cream for dessert) is an enormous bowl of noodles laced with every kind of seafood imaginable. And don't forsake the sushi Ñ Tokyo's is consistently fresh and comes in luxuriously large pieces.